Jeans Tack Buttons: How to Choose the Right Dies (Flat vs Hollow & Size Guide)

The metal button on a pair of jeans — the sturdy no-sew one on the waistband — is called a tack button (or jeans button). Whether you are a home sewist finishing your own denim, a repair shop replacing popped buttons, or someone who just wants their favourite jeans to fasten again, this is a fastener worth knowing how to set properly.

This guide explains how tack buttons work, the flat-versus-hollow choice, what size to buy, and which jeans tack button dies you need to install them cleanly.

What is a tack button?

A tack button has two parts: the decorative button front you see on the outside, and a tack (a nail-like pin) that pushes through the fabric from behind and locks into the button. No sewing, no thread — the two halves grip each other permanently once pressed together. That is why they are the standard on denim, which is too thick and stiff for a comfortable sewn button.

Because denim waistbands take constant pulling, tack buttons need to be strong and set straight. A hammer works but often leaves the button crooked or the tack half-seated. A hand press machine with the correct die seats them perfectly square every time — the professional result, without the noise or the dented thumbs.

Flat vs hollow tack button dies

Tack buttons come with different button-front shapes, and the die has to match the front so it does not crush the design:

• Flat button dies: for buttons with a flat or gently domed solid face. The most common everyday jeans button.
• Hollow (hole) button dies: for buttons with a recessed or raised centre / hollow-back design. The die is shaped to support that profile without flattening it.

The rule is simple: match the die to the button front you are using. If your buttons have a plain solid face, choose flat dies; if they have a hollow or shaped centre, choose hollow dies.

What size tack button do I need?

Jeans buttons are measured by the diameter of the button front. The size should pass neatly through the buttonhole — not so large it strains the hole, not so small it slips. Common sizes:

• 14 mm (0.55"): lighter denim, skirts, children's wear, smaller waistbands.
• 17 mm (0.67"): the most common all-round jeans button size.
• 20 mm (0.79"): heavier denim, jackets and statement buttons.

If you are replacing a button, measure the old one (or the buttonhole) and match the size. 17 mm is the safe default for most adult jeans.

Which dies to buy

We stock jeans tack button dies in both styles and all three sizes, so you can match exactly what you are setting:

Flat button dies: 14 mm, 17 mm and 20 mm.

Hollow (hole) button dies: 14 mm, 17 mm and 20 mm.

All dies fit our hand press machine (6.3 mm / 1/4" top thread, 11.9 mm / 1/2" bottom diameter). If you own another press, check those measurements first.

Need the buttons too?

You will need the tack buttons themselves to go with the dies. Our 35-Set Jeans Metal Tack Buttons (star pattern) includes 14 mm and 17 mm buttons with tacks — a handy starting supply for repairs or small production runs.

How to set a jeans button

1. Mark the position on the right side of the waistband (for a replacement, use the existing hole or patch a worn one first).
2. Make a small hole with an awl if the fabric does not already have one.
3. Insert the tack from the back through the fabric, and place the button front on top from the front.
4. Fit the matching die (right size and flat/hollow style) and press in one firm motion.
5. Practise on a denim scrap first to confirm the fit before doing the garment.

Frequently asked questions

Are tack buttons really no-sew?
Yes. The tack pierces the fabric and locks into the button front — no thread needed. This is why they are ideal for thick denim.

What size should I use to replace a jeans button?
Measure the old button or the buttonhole. 17 mm fits most adult jeans; 14 mm suits lighter garments and 20 mm heavier denim and jackets.

Why use a press instead of a hammer?
A press sets the button perfectly square with even pressure, avoiding the crooked or half-set results that hammering often produces — especially useful across a batch.

Do flat and hollow buttons use the same die?
No — match the die to the button front so the design is not crushed. Choose flat dies for solid-face buttons and hollow dies for recessed/shaped fronts.

Set denim buttons like a pro

Whether you are making jeans or bringing a favourite pair back to life, the right die makes a tack button sit straight and hold for years. Match the size and style to your buttons — flat 17 mm is the most popular starting point — and set your denim hardware with a clean, professional finish.